Self learn is good. But if you want to accelerate your learning, get some experts to teach you.
I recommend you learn how to hand code though.
I believe you can teach yourself just about anything on your own.
It just requires a willingness to learn and some dedication.
You can learn a bit. But as every one else has pretty much said learn to code as well it makes designing web sites a lot easier. As if you don't like something you can quickly change it with a few snippets of code.but really it would be a good idea to get a good ebook and a few youtube vids or Tutvid.com is a really good site with video tutorials once you've got the basics nailed down.